Saturday 4 February 2017

Fruit and Veg Shopping at Paddy's Market, Flemington

My wife and I moved to Lidcombe, NSW in mid-2015. We are both vegans and interested in getting the best fresh fruit and vegetables that we can at a reasonable price - something that is at best hit and miss in the Colesworth duopoly. Luckily for us the answer proved to be just next door in Flemington, at the enormous Sydney Markets complex - the largest market complex in Australia and among the largest in the world.

Sydney Markets was established at the Flemington site, only about 25 minutes from Sydney centre by train, in 1975. Its roots however started back in 1838 when Governer Bourke allowed for land to be set aside for a large market space near George Street that eventually became Paddy's Market. Paddy's Market eventually split - its flea market and some food stalls centred in Haymarket near Central Station and becoming a big Sydney tourist attraction, its fruit and veg market moved to an enormous market space in Flemington as part of the Sydney Markets complex.

Why include the Fruit and Veg market in a list of Sydney alternative attractions? Quite simply because it is amazing - as a treasure trove of great and cheap food, for its atmosphere almost akin to a busy Middle Eastern bazaar and as a symbol of modern multicultural Sydney.

To enter the market by train one would get off at Flemington and cross a long skybridge, on weekends jostling and weaving between crowds of shoppers with wheely trolleys. The path continues along a multistory car park and down a narrow winding staircase. There is a large flea market (akin to a British car boot sale) with all sorts of cheap items, however not particularly interesting in itself.

Paddy's Flemington Market is situated at a huge green hanger with stalls inside and out. The place is vibrant with people and activity, whether it be the loud chatter and shouting of prices, the busy movement of forklifts and trolleys moving fruits and veg about or the shuffling of crowds of shoppers. There are so many stalls with every type of fruit and veggie possible (and a few meat and seafood stalls) that it is possible to feel overwhelmed, however at the same time it feels somewhat exhilarating - a feeling more akin to a Middle Eastern souk or North African medina.

Unlike the above, negotiating is discouraged and prices are clearly marked. The standout is the size and quantity of the produce - enormous bananas and zucchinis that you would struggle to see in Northern European supermarkets, huge and yummy kale and lettuce, trays of ripe strawberrys, kumquat, huge and juicy tomatoes... anything one could want. The prices also standout - usually cheaper than in supermarkets. Some great deals later on too as farmers and vendors get rid of tgeir stock. I know someone whp came later in the day and was amazed to be able to purchase a big box of mangoes all for $5!

The place is also known as a centre of Australian multiculturalism. Vendors and farmers hail from all sorts of ethnicities - Lebanese, Chinese, Italian, Korean etc. With the market situated between Lidcombe/Auburn and Strathfield there are peole from all sorts of Chinese, Korean, Southeast Asian and Middle Eastern backgrounds among the shoppers - with a small but growing smattering of inner city hipster types attracted to the high quality, cheap food and ambiance.

I will let the images speak for themselves, however there is much to be said about Paddy's Flemington Market. If you live or are staying in the inner or outer Western suburbs of Sydney, it is definitely worth a visit. Who knows, with the ambiance and the value, quality and beauty of produce on display, you might keep coming back!


Sunday 22 January 2017

Bombo Beach, Kiama

The New South Wales Illawarra coast south of Sydney gets scant attention for its loveliness. It has some of the most spectacular scenery and beaches in this part of Australia and its climate is not dissimilar to Sydney however with the exceptions of Jervis Bay and the bus tourists who stop off at the Kiama Blowhole, foreign travellers tend to miss it out and head to Port Stephens, Coffs Harbour and up the east coast.

This is very much a pity - a travesty even. The beaches and coastline in the area are breathtaking and can be done cheaply in a day or overnight using Sydney Trains and paying no more than several dollars. While there are few if any backpacker hostels you can book a single room in some of the pubs for no more than $40-$70 per night. Busy tourist towns like Kiama and cities like Wollongong offer opportunities for hospitality work that you won't be competing with other travellers for.
Apart from the above, I write about the Illawarra and Shoalhaven because I am in love with these places - their beauty and history, the friendliness of the people, the busy cafes and pubs, the world class beaches and the ease of access. However there is so much I should write that I would not give the area justice by not concentrating on my favourite parts of it one at the time, so let me start off with Bombo....

Bombo, next to Kiama and about 2.5 hours by train from Sydney, is one of only two NSW beaches with its own railway station (The other being Coffs Harbour). It is a quiet suburb with large and stunning surfing beach. The one remarkable thing is that despite its beauty and proximity and ease of access to towns such as Kiama, Shellharbour and Wollongong, it is usually very quiet. About as quiet as you can get. It has light sands, clear waters and views of Kiama's headland, but no shops and a small car park. Perfect for sunbathing and picnics.




View of Bombo from the Kiama headland.


The walk from Bombo to Kiama involves passing alongside a quiet creek underneath the railway bridge and walking up a steep hill where the sweeping Bondi-esque curve of the beach reveals itself in picturesque manner. The walk down the hill towards the tourist town of Kiama continues past little bijoux, clothes and book shops along with quirky, vegetarian-friendly cafes. On weekends there is also a large outdoor market that is well worth a visit.

Is it worth visiting Bombo beach on its own from Sydney? Probably not, however it is worth considering it as part of a larger tour of discovery of the Illawarra. There is a lot to be said about the pretty seaside town next door, Kiama, however that should be left for its own blog. Enjoy!

Returning to Blogging

Dear All, after a few years of not doing any writing I have decided to return to regular blogging. Sydney is still an amazing city which I love and yet some of its best treasures are still hidden from the eyes of most backpackers and tourists.

Much has happened in the past few years. I became a permanent resident, now able to apply for citizenship, and married my wonderful wife, who herself grew up in Western Sydney. We moved to Lidcombe at the extreme end of the inner west, notable for its great Korean immigrant community and its many eclectic Korean-run coffee shops. We are currently on the lookout for a new house in Bankstown, a suburb south of Lidcombe famous for its Vietnamese and Lebanese cultural heritage and one of the greatest and most eccentric entertainment complexes in Sydney, Bankstown Sports.

I look forward to posting content about this great city that I hope you all enjoy. I would also like your feedback and comments. Watch this space! :-)