Fruit and Veg Shopping at Paddy's Market, Flemington

My wife and I moved to Lidcombe, NSW in mid-2015. We are both vegans and interested in getting the best fresh fruit and vegetables that we can at a reasonable price - something that is at best hit and miss in the Colesworth duopoly. Luckily for us the answer proved to be just next door in Flemington, at the enormous Sydney Markets complex - the largest market complex in Australia and among the largest in the world.

Sydney Markets was established at the Flemington site, only about 25 minutes from Sydney centre by train, in 1975. Its roots however started back in 1838 when Governer Bourke allowed for land to be set aside for a large market space near George Street that eventually became Paddy's Market. Paddy's Market eventually split - its flea market and some food stalls centred in Haymarket near Central Station and becoming a big Sydney tourist attraction, its fruit and veg market moved to an enormous market space in Flemington as part of the Sydney Markets complex.

Why include the Fruit and Veg market in a list of Sydney alternative attractions? Quite simply because it is amazing - as a treasure trove of great and cheap food, for its atmosphere almost akin to a busy Middle Eastern bazaar and as a symbol of modern multicultural Sydney.

To enter the market by train one would get off at Flemington and cross a long skybridge, on weekends jostling and weaving between crowds of shoppers with wheely trolleys. The path continues along a multistory car park and down a narrow winding staircase. There is a large flea market (akin to a British car boot sale) with all sorts of cheap items, however not particularly interesting in itself.

Paddy's Flemington Market is situated at a huge green hanger with stalls inside and out. The place is vibrant with people and activity, whether it be the loud chatter and shouting of prices, the busy movement of forklifts and trolleys moving fruits and veg about or the shuffling of crowds of shoppers. There are so many stalls with every type of fruit and veggie possible (and a few meat and seafood stalls) that it is possible to feel overwhelmed, however at the same time it feels somewhat exhilarating - a feeling more akin to a Middle Eastern souk or North African medina.

Unlike the above, negotiating is discouraged and prices are clearly marked. The standout is the size and quantity of the produce - enormous bananas and zucchinis that you would struggle to see in Northern European supermarkets, huge and yummy kale and lettuce, trays of ripe strawberrys, kumquat, huge and juicy tomatoes... anything one could want. The prices also standout - usually cheaper than in supermarkets. Some great deals later on too as farmers and vendors get rid of tgeir stock. I know someone whp came later in the day and was amazed to be able to purchase a big box of mangoes all for $5!

The place is also known as a centre of Australian multiculturalism. Vendors and farmers hail from all sorts of ethnicities - Lebanese, Chinese, Italian, Korean etc. With the market situated between Lidcombe/Auburn and Strathfield there are peole from all sorts of Chinese, Korean, Southeast Asian and Middle Eastern backgrounds among the shoppers - with a small but growing smattering of inner city hipster types attracted to the high quality, cheap food and ambiance.

I will let the images speak for themselves, however there is much to be said about Paddy's Flemington Market. If you live or are staying in the inner or outer Western suburbs of Sydney, it is definitely worth a visit. Who knows, with the ambiance and the value, quality and beauty of produce on display, you might keep coming back!

Bombo Beach, Kiama

The New South Wales Illawarra coast south of Sydney gets scant attention for its loveliness. It has some of the most spectacular scenery and beaches in this part of Australia and its climate is not dissimilar to Sydney however with the exceptions of Jervis Bay and the bus tourists who stop off at the Kiama Blowhole, foreign travellers tend to miss it out and head to Port Stephens, Coffs Harbour and up the east coast.

This is very much a pity - a travesty even. The beaches and coastline in the area are breathtaking and can be done cheaply in a day or overnight using Sydney Trains and paying no more than several dollars. While there are few if any backpacker hostels you can book a single room in some of the pubs for no more than $40-$70 per night. Busy tourist towns like Kiama and cities like Wollongong offer opportunities for hospitality work that you won't be competing with other travellers for.

Apart from the above, I write about the Illawarra and Shoalhaven because I am in love with these places - their beauty and history, the friendliness of the people, the busy cafes and pubs, the world class beaches and the ease of access. However there is so much I should write that I would not give the area justice by not concentrating on my favourite parts of it one at the time, so let me start off with Bombo....

Bombo, next to Kiama and about 2.5 hours by train from Sydney, is one of only two NSW beaches with its own railway station (The other being Coffs Harbour). It is a quiet suburb with large and stunning surfing beach. The one remarkable thing is that despite its beauty and proximity and ease of access to towns such as Kiama, Shellharbour and Wollongong, it is usually very quiet. About as quiet as you can get. It has light sands, clear waters and views of Kiama's headland, but no shops and a small car park. Perfect for sunbathing and picnics.

View of Bombo from the Kiama headland.

The walk from Bombo to Kiama involves passing alongside a quiet creek underneath the railway bridge and walking up a steep hill where the sweeping Bondi-esque curve of the beach reveals itself in picturesque manner. The walk down the hill towards the tourist town of Kiama continues past little bijoux, clothes and book shops along with quirky, vegetarian-friendly cafes. On weekends there is also a large outdoor market that is well worth a visit.

Is it worth visiting Bombo beach on its own from Sydney? Probably not, however it is worth considering it as part of a larger tour of discovery of the Illawarra. There is a lot to be said about the pretty seaside town next door, Kiama, however that should be left for its own blog. Enjoy!

Returning to Blogging

Dear All, after a few years of not doing any writing I have decided to return to regular blogging. Sydney is still an amazing city which I love and yet some of its best treasures are still hidden from the eyes of most backpackers and tourists.

Much has happened in the past few years. I became a permanent resident, now able to apply for citizenship, and married my wonderful wife, who herself grew up in Western Sydney. We moved to Lidcombe at the extreme end of the inner west, notable for its great Korean immigrant community and its many eclectic Korean-run coffee shops. We are currently on the lookout for a new house in Bankstown, a suburb south of Lidcombe famous for its Vietnamese and Lebanese cultural heritage and one of the greatest and most eccentric entertainment complexes in Sydney, Bankstown Sports.

I look forward to posting content about this great city that I hope you all enjoy. I would also like your feedback and comments. Watch this space! :-)

Woy Woy and the Brisbane Water National Park, Central Coast

Last Sunday (14th Sept 2014) I took a meetup group up to the Central Coast, a stunning national park area about an hour and ten minutes north of Sydney. We visited the town of Woy Woy, surrounded by stunning hills, lakes and mangroves and very accessible by train from Sydney.

Woy Woy itself is situated in the heart of the Brisbane Water National Park, and close to beautiful beaches such as Umina and Ettalong, accessible on the Newcastle and North Coast rail line for a cheap price. Its main street contains some hippie Byron Bay-esque shops and cafes. It is a tourist area although the vast number of tourists are those from Sydney and Newcastle on day or weekend trips.

The real key to visiting Woy Woy is the beautiful scenery and wildlife, particularly the cockatoos, lorikeets and large Australian pelicans who will swoop for your chips if you aren't careful! There are numerour hotels and guesthouses in the area, although no backpacker hostels I am aware of.

The Riveride walk starts just east of the Railway Station and is beautiful enough not to need comment, therefore I have just posted pictures below. Following the walk will take the rambler as far as Ettalong and Umina beach, although we did not go so far on our trip.

Like the rest of the Central Coast, this area is well worth a visit for its beauty alone, however it provides a great day out for bushwalking and watersports and is definitely worth checking..

Cabramatta - Slices of Southeast Asia 1 hour from Sydney

Dear All,

Apologies for the lack of blog posts. I have had other commitments on my time recently, however and fully committed to regular blog posts on content you would find interesting,

Cabramatta, a suburb in the South West of Sydney about 1 hour from the CBD by train. Due to its mix of Vietnamese, Lao, Cambodian, Macedonian, Thai and Chinese populations, it is famous as a unique cultural melting pot with great restaurants, cheap markets and a unique atmosphere. It is an old suburb by Australian standards, dating from the first village of 1814 to take the name and a township arising in the 1850s,  however the creation of the Cabramatta and Villawood Migrant Hostels in the 1970s and 1980s were, along with the increase of immigration of refugees from the Vietnam War (a policy of the Whitlam Government - Gough Whitlam himself lived for a time in Cabramatta), instrumental in the place developing a large South East Asian population that defines Cabramatta's unique multicultural character today. It is now Australia's largest non-anglo-celtic town centre and considered a culinary centre for south South East Asian cuisine.

Its unique shops, restauramts, architecture, signage, peoples and atmosphere have created an ambiance that would not be out of place even in Saigon. It is worth the 1h trip. Also the prices of food, clothes and other items in its markets are often much cheaper than the equivalent in the Sydney CBD or the Eastern Suburbs.

Here are some pictures of my most trip today below...

Freedom Plaza by Park Road, with the Pagoda at the far end.

Belvedere Arcade, often called "Vegan Alley" due to the large number of Buddhist vegan restaurants in and around it. The arcade does however contain several restaurants serving meat...

Pho 54 Vietnamese Restuarant on Freedom Plaza

One of the many shopping and market areas.

The Loving Hut Vegetarian Restaurant on Cabramatta Road West, one of the most well known restaurants in Cabramatta and part of an international chain of restaurants formed and owned by Vientamese-American Buddhist leader Supreme Master Ching Hai

Yum! :D

There is a wide range of well-priced South East Asian (meat and vegetarian) restaurants in the suburb along with great shops and markets. Well worth a visit and exploration if you need a change of scenary outside of the CBD and tourist areas....

Balmain by Boat

Instead of my usual train from North Sydney to my home in the Inner West I decided to take the ferry to Balmain and bus it from there. The reason I did this is that any opportunity to enjoy Sydney Harbour by boat and to more explore a historic suburb I find interesting and beautiful is always a welcome one.

Despite the dull and overcast weather, the view of the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House from Milson's Point Ferry Wharf is always breathtaking, along with pleasant views of Lavendar Bay and Walsh Bay across the harbour. The public ferries are a cheap and convenient way to see the sort of "Million Dollar Views" that usually adorn postcards, as anyone who has taken the Sydney-Manly ferry service can attest to.

The view from Milson's Point Ferry Wharf

The short trip to Balmain Ferry Wharf takes in impressive views of the Harbour Bridge, the skyline of the Sydney Central Business District and Goat Island. I arrived at Balmain at Mort Bay and saw a number of cheerful sights in the adjecent park - groups of people doing exercise drills, children playing and riding bicycles and older people fishing from the edge of the wharf.

Fishing at Mort Bay

Named after colonial surgeon Dr. William Balmain who was granted the land by Governer John Hunter in 1800, industrial and residential development and settlement started in the 1830s and 1840s and soon Balmain became a prominent industrial area for the working class of Sydney. Since the 1960s, industry has waned in Balmain to be replaced by increasing industrial gentrification - Sydney's middle class attracted by Balmain's beauty and proximity to the city. Many of the old factories have been replaced by low-rise residential developments. Former Prime Minister Paul Keating once described the burgeoning middle class of the suburb as the "Basket Weavers of Balmain".

Heading up the hill to Balmain's high street are streets of attractive Victorian and Federation-era houses of different styles. Also of note were two colonial-era pubs I passed, the Dry Dock Hotel (Balmain's oldest licensed pub, dating from 1857, and with charming decor) and the Free-Classical style Royal Oak Hotel (opened in 1878, and important in the history of the Australian Union Movement).

Dry Dock Hotel, 22 Cameron Street

Royal Oak Hotel, 36 College Street

I had the impression that these pubs, inevitably due to their ages, have a cosy British Pub-type feel, along with a good range of beers and provision of food that would make them worthwhile drink stops in any traveller's discovery of Balmain.

Darling Street, the main street of Balmain, has a plethora of interesting bijoux clothes, health and beauty shops, pubs and restaurants fairly close together. Even on a Tuesday night, bars such as Cantina Bar and the Cottage seemed busy and vibrant with a young crowd and decent music.

The Cottage Bar and Kitchen

Cantina Bar

Other notable places on Darling Street are Monkey Bar and the beautifully restored 140+ year-old London Hotel, from which one can avail of the restaurant, observe the Harbour Bridge from its balcony and enjoy its boutique beers and ciders. The beautiful Gladstone Park, sitting above the historic Balmain reservoir, provides areas for outdoor relaxing and contemplation.

Gladstone Park

London Hotel, 234 Darling Street

As far as interesting and entertaining inner suburbs go, Balmain has much to offer the inquisitive traveller, and rarely disappoints.

Rock & Roll Alternative Market - For the Rockabillies, Mods, Rockers and Aspiring 50s Pin Ups and Burlesques among us

Following on from the Sydney University post, yesterday my (wonderful) girlfriend and I visited an interesting and eclectic alternative market and music festival held at the University's Manning Building every 2 months.

While being slightly weighted towards retro pinup fashions, the market sells anything and everything a person in the retro 50s and 60s subcultures would want (and a good day out for everyone else), staffed often by stylishly quiffed 50s Rockabilly guys and glamorous-looking, big-hair and red lipsticked pin up gals. Stalls stocking clothes, jewelry, bags, cult videos, posters and room decor and books, along with good food abound over three floors.

(My photos)...

On the second floor I saw a retro hairdressers and makeup stylist section.

Upstairs I saw a few 50s rock bands playing what appeared to be throughout the day in the Manning Bar to a packed crowd dancing and drinking. Lots of fun...

If you are keen on visiting, feel free to visit the website and facebook group for more info and a flavour of the event.